Modest Mommy Nursing Cover-up
Please read all instructions before beginning. These instructions are written for a serger for edge finishing and ruffle hemming. You will need to add ½” to the width of the ruffles if you plan to hem instead of serge them. The yardage requirements don’t change. One size fits most.
1 1/3 yd. Non-directional fabric
½ yd. Boning ¼ inch wide. I bought a 2 yd. package of Dritz Featherlite Boning ¼” wide with ½” poly cotton cover #565-9. If you can buy boning without the cloth cover, do so as you will remove it.
One set (2) of 1” or 1 ¼” rectangle or half circle rings (used for making belts and purses). I used Dritz #119-1-65
RSU/WSU right/wrong side up
RST/WST right/wrong side together
SA seam allowance
WOF width of fabric
Refer to the fabric layout diagram. Fig. 1
Straighten the edge of the fabric.
Cut 2 strips 2”x WOF for the top ruffle.
Cut 1 strip 4 ¾ ”x WOF for the strap (to be cut into 2 pieces later).
This should leave you with a little over a yard of fabric. Cut the body of the garment 35 ½” wide and 27” long.�
Cut 4 strips 3” X 36” from the remaining piece of fabric. These pieces are your bottom ruffles.
On the bottom and sides of the garment, turn the edges under ¼” and press. Turn under again another ½” and press. Hemstitch down the sides and bottom.
Serge/sew 2 – 3”x 36” strips together to make one
3”x 71 ½” strip. Repeat giving you 2 – 3”x 71 ½” strips. Serge both ends and across one long edge to finish the edges. Using the narrow hem setting on the serger, hem the bottom edge of the strips. Turn under ¼” on both ends, press and stitch to hem the ends. Repeat for the other bottom ruffle strip. For the top ruffle, sew the 2 – 2” strips together and cut to 2” x 71 ½”. Finish the same way you did the bottom ruffles. Using the method you prefer, gather the serged edge of all 3 ruffle strips, staying as close to the top edge as you can.
Attaching the ruffles:
Draw 2 pencil lines across the bottom of the garment – one 2” from the bottom hemmed edge and the other 4” from the hemmed edge. Fig. 2 Gather the ruffle to match the width of the garment. Lay the gathered ruffle WSU with the serged edge lined up above the bottom drawn line. This means your ruffle is upside down. When stitched and pressed down the ruffle should be about ¼” longer than the bottom hem and your gathering stitches should not be visible. Check to make sure it is before sewing it down. Adjust if necessary. Sew across the gathered edge using a 3/8” SA – which should include the gathering stitch. Do the same for the upper ruffle, adjusting accordingly so that the finished ruffle is about ¼” past the top edge of the lower ruffle. Press both ruffles down and topstitch each ruffle down. Fig. 3
Taking the 4 ¾” x WOF strip, trim off the selvages, fold in half lengthwise and sew ¼” SA angling diagonally 2 ½” from the bottom to make a point. Turn RSO, press and topstitch. Trim the strap to 26”. From the remainder of the strap, cut a 7 ½ ” piece. Feed this strap through both of the rings, fold the strap in half lengthwise, the rings being at the folded end. Using your zipper foot, sew across the strap just under the rings to hold them in place. Fig. 4
Attaching top ruffle and straps:
Gather the top ruffle to the width of the garment. Turn the garment WSU. Lay the ruffle WSU, aligning top edges and pin the ruffle to the back of the garment. Yes, both pieces are WSU. Mark 8” in from both sides. Insert the unfinished ends of the straps between the ruffle and the garment just inside the 8” marks and pin, the raw edges of the straps matching the upper edge of the garment. Your straps should be approximately 14” apart from the inner edges of the straps. Sew across the top edge 3/8” down, making sure the gathering stitch is included. Fig. 5
Turn the ruffle towards the front of the garment and the SA towards the inside of the garment and the straps up and free – the seam is along the top. Press. To make the casing for the boning, sew another seam, 3/8” down from the top edge, across the ruffle all the way from one side to the other, making sure the straps are free. Stitch the casing closed on one side, in line with the middle of the strap. Cut a 16” piece of boning and remove the cloth covering. Insert the boning into the casing all the way to the stitched end. Stitch the other end of the casing closed, which should be lined up with the center of the strap. Fig. 6
Now Mommy can nurse her baby in fashion!